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But no matter how you approach the place, all paths lead to Super Khorak’s outstanding hot table and takeout counter, laden with jewelled rices, delicate, spice braised meats and sublime vegetable stews. The celery stew, called khoresht e karafs, makes a superhero of the stalks; it’s richly bittersweet and vegetal, but with mint, parsley and nubs of beef for balance and fullness. The beef kebabs are good, if not exceptional (the ones just down the street at Super Arzon are done over charcoal instead of gas, and the selection’s far better); there are condiment packets filled with sumac to go with them.
